> Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
>
>> If they're gull-wing pins then you solder them on by first
>> globbing on solder to make a huge solder bridge, then using
>> solder wick to suck off the excess and leave a nice solder
>> joint on each pin.
>
> I used to do it this way, but now I find that I get just as good
> results - if not better - by tacking down the corners of the part,
> then putting a metric buttload (must be metric; no inch-pound-
> foot-acres) of flux on the PCB, and bringing the iron and solder
> in as close as possible to parallel to the PCB plane and pin
> direction. Few if any bridges result.
I believe it is also essential that the mixture used in the flux be
specified in MKS units.
--
[mail]: Chuck F (cbfalconer at maineline dot net)
[page]: <http://cbfalconer.home.att.net>
Try the download section.
Reply by ●March 9, 20092009-03-09
On Mar 9, 12:36=A0pm, Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
> If they're gull-wing pins then you solder them on by first globbing on
> solder to make a huge solder bridge, then using solder wick to suck off
> the excess and leave a nice solder joint on each pin.
I used to do it this way, but now I find that I get just as good
results - if not better - by tacking down the corners of the part,
then putting a metric buttload (must be metric; no inch-pound-foot-
acres) of flux on the PCB, and bringing the iron and solder in as
close as possible to parallel to the PCB plane and pin direction. Few
if any bridges result.
Reply by Tim Wescott●March 9, 20092009-03-09
On Mon, 09 Mar 2009 13:58:31 +0000, B1ackwater wrote:
> Aaaaugh !!!
>
> Teenie-tiny pin schemes may be ok for robots, but not for human
> assemblers.
>
> Rabbits 2mm scheme was bad enough, but now I'm working with the RCM-3400
> which shrank everything down to a solder-bridge-guarenteed 1.27mm
> layout.
>
> Rabbit does sell what it calls an adaptor board ... but you get a board
> and some SM sockets YOU have to solder onto the thing. This doesn't fix
> the underlying problem ...
>
> So, has anyone run across a manufacturer who makes PRE-assembled adaptor
> boards for Rabbit modules ... ie has 1.27mm sockets already attached and
> then expands them to 0.10 pins ordinary Joes can easily work with ?
If they're gull-wing pins then you solder them on by first globbing on
solder to make a huge solder bridge, then using solder wick to suck off
the excess and leave a nice solder joint on each pin.
Works like a charm.
Has anyone investigated inexpensive microscope solutions? This job is
doable with a sharp naked eye or a loupe, but it's a heck of a lot easier
with an assembly microscope.
--
http://www.wescottdesign.com
Reply by B1ackwater●March 9, 20092009-03-09
Aaaaugh !!!
Teenie-tiny pin schemes may be ok for robots, but
not for human assemblers.
Rabbits 2mm scheme was bad enough, but now I'm working
with the RCM-3400 which shrank everything down to a
solder-bridge-guarenteed 1.27mm layout.
Rabbit does sell what it calls an adaptor board ... but
you get a board and some SM sockets YOU have to solder
onto the thing. This doesn't fix the underlying problem ...
So, has anyone run across a manufacturer who makes
PRE-assembled adaptor boards for Rabbit modules ...
ie has 1.27mm sockets already attached and then
expands them to 0.10 pins ordinary Joes can easily
work with ?