Building a UV PCB exposure box?

Hello,

Ideas please?

A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about �100, and is,
professionally made and neat and tidy.  I'm wondering if for sake of ease it
would be easier to just go out and buy one?

I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say �10, which are
mentioned in a few of the tutorials online.  Ballasts I have at home
somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs,
and time.

This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial.  There's
also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about
�20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is
the right type of UV?

Circular tubes?  U-shaped tubes?  Straight tubes?  Little 9W dual parallel
tubes?

I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one,
although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy.

Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really.
I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used
as a light box.

Friendly regards,

Alison

ps. There's this one at Rapid for �110 in a little kit;

<http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690>

Aly wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> Ideas please?
> 
> A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about �100, and is,
> professionally made and neat and tidy.  I'm wondering if for sake of ease it
> would be easier to just go out and buy one?
> 
> I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say �10, which are
> mentioned in a few of the tutorials online.  Ballasts I have at home
> somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs,
> and time.
> 
> This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial.  There's
> also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about
> �20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is
> the right type of UV?
> 
> Circular tubes?  U-shaped tubes?  Straight tubes?  Little 9W dual parallel
> tubes?
> 
> I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one,
> although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy.
> 
> Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really.
> I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used
> as a light box.
> 
> Friendly regards,
> 
> Alison
> 
> ps. There's this one at Rapid for �110 in a little kit;
> 
> <http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690>
> 
> 
Greetings,

Just an alternative, but you said inputs are welcome :-)

You could print the pcb-layout on a laser printer using this "glossy 
photo paper" eg "EPSON Photo Quality Glossy Paper type: SO41126".

Next you take a normal _CLEAN_ pcb - not the photo sensitive type - put 
the paper on it and then simply ironing it on will transfer the layout 
to the pcb.

Etchy - Etchy - Etchy and you have your pcb. As long as you keep the 
tracks / spacings > 25 mils you should be ok.

It is cheaper than buying the above mentioned kit but produces it bit 
more coarse pcbs.

One more alternative is www.olimex.com. They produce a Euro-card for you 
for $ 56 including P&P.

Chees
RaceMouse

"Aly" <,shfskfjsf@sliuflky4iuhdf.erl> schreef in bericht 
news:YJ6dnVGYZuF3h4vbnZ2dnUVZ8qqlnZ2d@bt.com...
> Hello,
>
> Ideas please?
>
> A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about &#4294967295;100, and 
> is,
> professionally made and neat and tidy.  I'm wondering if for sake of ease 
> it
> would be easier to just go out and buy one?
>
> I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say &#4294967295;10, which are
> mentioned in a few of the tutorials online.  Ballasts I have at home
> somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs,
> and time.
>
> This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial.  There's
> also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about
> &#4294967295;20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is
> the right type of UV?
>
> Circular tubes?  U-shaped tubes?  Straight tubes?  Little 9W dual parallel
> tubes?
>
> I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one,
> although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy.
>
> Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really.
> I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be 
> used
> as a light box.
>
> Friendly regards,
>
> Alison
>
> ps. There's this one at Rapid for &#4294967295;110 in a little kit;
>
> <http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690>
>
>


The DIY spirit found a real cheap method some years ago. Use an obsolete 
face tanner and an old scanner. An example can be found on
http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/730455///
Although the text is Dutch, the pictures tell the story. I build one this 
way. Bought scanner and tanner for less then $15,-- on a flee market. The 
only extras were some pieces of scrapwood, some wire, two screws and piece 
of hot melt glue. Works like a charm. Two minutes exposure is enough to get 
perfect PCBs.

You only must make sure that your positives are pitchblack. My printer, 
although perfect in normal printing, does not make the artwork black enough. 
I have to stack two sheets to block the UV.

petrus bitbyter

On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" <,shfskf...@sliuflky4iuhdf.erl> wrote:

> somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs,

You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. Apart from this issue, all the
mechanical needs are satisfied by taking an old scanner and removing
the innards; put the UV tubes and reflector inside where the scan
mechanism used to go, and put your PCB on the glass, then close the
lid.

> Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really.
> I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used
> as a light box.

Not advisable. If you're building a UV box, you should interlock it so
that the tubes cannot come on while the lid is open. There are fun
ways of going blind, and dumb ways... stick to the fun ways.

On Fri, 6 Apr 2007 11:05:04 +0100, "Aly" <,shfskfjsf@sliuflky4iuhdf.erl> wrote:

>Hello,
>
>Ideas please?
>
>A small professional UV box with two 8W tubes will cost about &#4294967295;100, and is,
>professionally made and neat and tidy.  I'm wondering if for sake of ease it
>would be easier to just go out and buy one?
>
>I've seen the UV "fly killer," tubes on eBay for say &#4294967295;10, which are
>mentioned in a few of the tutorials online.  Ballasts I have at home
>somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs,
>and time.
>
>This is all purely for making the odd PCB so nothing commercial.  There's
>also those little UV nail boxes for curing the plastic, they're only about
>&#4294967295;20 although I wonder about even coverage with those, and if indeed it is
>the right type of UV?
>
>Circular tubes?  U-shaped tubes?  Straight tubes?  Little 9W dual parallel
>tubes?
>
>I'm just wondering in the end if it would be easier to just buy one,
>although that's not really in keeping with the spirit of diy.
>
>Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really.
>I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used
>as a light box.
>
>Friendly regards,
>
>Alison
>
>ps. There's this one at Rapid for &#4294967295;110 in a little kit;
>
><http://www.rapidonline.com/searchresults.aspx?style=0&kw=34-0690>

Fly killer tubes are the correct type, but you should be able to get them cheaper than &#4294967295;10
e.g.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Domestic_Index/Insect_Killers/index.html
http://www.megauk.com/sundries_and_accessories.php

Microwave oven timers are perfect for UV exposure units, especially the ones that go 'ping'

On 6 Apr 2007 04:03:50 -0700, "larwe" <zwsdotcom@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" <,shfskf...@sliuflky4iuhdf.erl> wrote:
>
>> somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits bobs,
>
>You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. 

Not for PCB exposure you don't. Normal glass is fine, 

>> Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really.
>> I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be used
>> as a light box.
>
>Not advisable. If you're building a UV box, you should interlock it so
>that the tubes cannot come on while the lid is open. There are fun
>ways of going blind, and dumb ways... stick to the fun ways.

The type of UV tube used for PCB exposure are not particularly hazardous ( unlike the germicidal
ones used in UV erasers). 

On Apr 6, 8:28 am, Mike Harrison <m...@whitewing.co.uk> wrote:

> The type of UV tube used for PCB exposure are not particularly hazardous ( unlike the germicidal
> ones used in UV erasers).

What wavelength is required? I assumed they were the same.

"larwe" <zwsdotcom@gmail.com> schreef in bericht 
news:1175857430.486843.267850@q75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" <,shfskf...@sliuflky4iuhdf.erl> wrote:
>
>> somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits 
>> bobs,
>
> You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. Apart from this issue, all the
> mechanical needs are satisfied by taking an old scanner and removing
> the innards; put the UV tubes and reflector inside where the scan
> mechanism used to go, and put your PCB on the glass, then close the
> lid.
>
>> Many thanks for any input, I'm just looking for ideas and opinons really.
>> I'd also be half tempted to put in regular tubes too so that it can be 
>> used
>> as a light box.
>
> Not advisable. If you're building a UV box, you should interlock it so
> that the tubes cannot come on while the lid is open. There are fun
> ways of going blind, and dumb ways... stick to the fun ways.
>

_Quartz_ glass? I was told so very often. But the glas of scanner is 
apparently good enough.

Face tanners have no lid. So the need for an interlock will not be that 
strong. Nevertheless you should not look into the light. If you want to tan 
your face with it, you need to keep your eyes closed. The light can do 
serious damage to your eyes.

petrus bitbyter 

"larwe" <zwsdotcom@gmail.com> wrote in message 
news:1175857430.486843.267850@q75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 6, 6:05 am, "Aly" <,shfskf...@sliuflky4iuhdf.erl> wrote:
>
>> somewhere.  Would need a neat little case, cut glass, switches, bits 
>> bobs,
>
> You need _quartz_ glass to pass all UV. Apart from this issue, all the
> mechanical needs are satisfied by taking an old scanner and removing
> the innards; put the UV tubes and reflector inside where the scan
> mechanism used to go, and put your PCB on the glass, then close the
> lid.
Are scanner glasses usually quartz glass? I have an old scanner here now.... 

"larwe" <zwsdotcom@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1175862764.662310.214260@y66g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> On Apr 6, 8:28 am, Mike Harrison <m...@whitewing.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > The type of UV tube used for PCB exposure are not particularly hazardous
( unlike the germicidal
> > ones used in UV erasers).
>
> What wavelength is required? I assumed they were the same.
>

There's some germicidal ones on eBay at the moment for any budding EPROM
eraser builders.

I'm following this thread with interest :-)  I think I'm going to buy one of
the ready made boxes.  Flea/car boot sales round here have been taken over
by commercial companies and health and safety.  :-(  We're in the UK
afterall where the kids aren't even allowed to play football anymore.
Frankly I'm amazed they let people handle PCB chemicals even, heaven forbid,
they might burn a hole in their trousers.

Here's the eBay link (it may be CR/LF wrapped);

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300096513031