Aaaaugh !!! Teenie-tiny pin schemes may be ok for robots, but not for human assemblers. Rabbits 2mm scheme was bad enough, but now I'm working with the RCM-3400 which shrank everything down to a solder-bridge-guarenteed 1.27mm layout. Rabbit does sell what it calls an adaptor board ... but you get a board and some SM sockets YOU have to solder onto the thing. This doesn't fix the underlying problem ... So, has anyone run across a manufacturer who makes PRE-assembled adaptor boards for Rabbit modules ... ie has 1.27mm sockets already attached and then expands them to 0.10 pins ordinary Joes can easily work with ?
PRE-Assembled Rabbit Adapter Boards - 1.27mm --> 0.10 ???
Started by ●March 9, 2009
Reply by ●March 9, 20092009-03-09
On Mon, 09 Mar 2009 13:58:31 +0000, B1ackwater wrote:> Aaaaugh !!! > > Teenie-tiny pin schemes may be ok for robots, but not for human > assemblers. > > Rabbits 2mm scheme was bad enough, but now I'm working with the RCM-3400 > which shrank everything down to a solder-bridge-guarenteed 1.27mm > layout. > > Rabbit does sell what it calls an adaptor board ... but you get a board > and some SM sockets YOU have to solder onto the thing. This doesn't fix > the underlying problem ... > > So, has anyone run across a manufacturer who makes PRE-assembled adaptor > boards for Rabbit modules ... ie has 1.27mm sockets already attached and > then expands them to 0.10 pins ordinary Joes can easily work with ?If they're gull-wing pins then you solder them on by first globbing on solder to make a huge solder bridge, then using solder wick to suck off the excess and leave a nice solder joint on each pin. Works like a charm. Has anyone investigated inexpensive microscope solutions? This job is doable with a sharp naked eye or a loupe, but it's a heck of a lot easier with an assembly microscope. -- http://www.wescottdesign.com
Reply by ●March 9, 20092009-03-09
On Mar 9, 12:36=A0pm, Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:> If they're gull-wing pins then you solder them on by first globbing on > solder to make a huge solder bridge, then using solder wick to suck off > the excess and leave a nice solder joint on each pin.I used to do it this way, but now I find that I get just as good results - if not better - by tacking down the corners of the part, then putting a metric buttload (must be metric; no inch-pound-foot- acres) of flux on the PCB, and bringing the iron and solder in as close as possible to parallel to the PCB plane and pin direction. Few if any bridges result.
Reply by ●March 10, 20092009-03-10
zwsdotcom@gmail.com wrote:> Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote: > >> If they're gull-wing pins then you solder them on by first >> globbing on solder to make a huge solder bridge, then using >> solder wick to suck off the excess and leave a nice solder >> joint on each pin. > > I used to do it this way, but now I find that I get just as good > results - if not better - by tacking down the corners of the part, > then putting a metric buttload (must be metric; no inch-pound- > foot-acres) of flux on the PCB, and bringing the iron and solder > in as close as possible to parallel to the PCB plane and pin > direction. Few if any bridges result.I believe it is also essential that the mixture used in the flux be specified in MKS units. -- [mail]: Chuck F (cbfalconer at maineline dot net) [page]: <http://cbfalconer.home.att.net> Try the download section.
